All Culinary Artist Should Train Here’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Leading Restaurants.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.
A Surprise Honour
This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.
“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
A Charm of Modesty
The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
The Star Offering: Tantuni
However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.
It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.
Rising Above the Giants
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.
A Ethos of Heart
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
The Path of Perseverance
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
A Accomplishment for the People
The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.
