Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
